What are the Benefits of Mugwort Essence? Dermatologists Reveal Verdict on this Ancient Ingredient
Table of Contents
Overall Trend for Mugwort Essence
Getting to Know Mugwort for Skincare
Evaluating the Research on Mugwort for Skin
Realistic Skincare Expectations for Mugwort
Effective, Evidence-Based Approaches to Sensitive Skin Care
Alternative Ingredients with More Evidence than Mugwort
Overall Trend for Mugwort Essence
Move over snail mucin - mugwort is the apparent new trend of the Korean beauty world. With its promises of transforming irritated complexions prone to sensitivity and inflammation, mugwort dominates bestseller lists for beauty products and forums.
If we dig deeper into the trend data, we will see that search interest in this topic has increased by 127% just in the last 3 months alone, and >300% since 2019. (Source)
But what does science actually reveal about this traditional botanical extract for skin application?
Yes, our team is focused on evidence-based topics - and sometimes, that means tackling what appears to be fads and early trends to see where the science stands. In this article, our team of dermatologists weigh in on what limited evidence suggests about mugwort for skin along with unknowns that warrant measured expectations.
Getting to Know Mugwort for Skincare
Known scientifically as Artemisia princeps, mugwort comprises over 400 plant species within the daisy flower family. It enjoys a rich history in ancient medicinal traditions across Asia, Europe and North America to tackle various internal and topical ailments.
In Korean Hanbang practice specifically, mugwort holds almost revered status for purported healing of issues like:
Skin irritation and inflammation
Stomach pain and menstrual cramps
Childbirth and postpartum recovery aid
In recent times, claims have been made regarding the use of mugwort to:
Soothe angry, reactive and sensitive complexions
Calm redness and irritation
Treat skin conditions like eczema, psoriasis and acne
However, we are here to explore these claims and see whether mugwort is a warranted skincare ingredient to integrate into a skincare routine. Let’s analyze the evidence.
Evaluating the Research on Mugwort for Skin
Most would reasonably expect centuries of mugwort skin lore to correlate with volumes of clinical literature supporting skincare efficacy. But aside from small, mostly lab-based studies on isolated compounds, gold-standard double-blind controlled trials examining mugwort formulations applied topically to human skin remain limited.
Early indicators across dermatology are extremely nascent, meaning high-quality data explicitly demonstrating mugwort improves contemporary skin challenges is currently lacking.
Without sufficient clinical testing, mugwort remains more of a theoretical panacea than proven powerhouse for now. Here’s a quick summary of preliminary findings that still warrant replication and expansion:
May inhibit acne bacteria growth: Petri dish studies report mugwort extracts display antimicrobial effects against common strains like P. Acnes. But whether this translates to true anti-acne benefits when applied on human skin not yet evaluated. Source
Hints at anti-inflammatory properties: Test tube, animal and two small human studies indicate mugwort flavonoids and other compounds may suppress inflammatory chemicals. But further controlled trials still needed. Source
Shows potential skin barrier protection: Early research suggests mugwort triterpenes may reinforce intercellular lipid layers. But verification in humans over time still lacking.
So yes - select lab and short-term pilot studies indicate biological pathways through which mugwort may aid skin. But we cannot say that small samples in a lab will mirror results in patients over long periods of time. What that means is that larger scale clinical testing holds the true keys to unlocking mugwort’s evidence-based abilities, if any. So far, that complete picture for this ingredient remains clouded in mystery.
In summary: Intriguing but incomplete. Let’s examine realistic expectations given limitations of the existing mugwort skin science so far.
Realistic Skincare Expectations for Mugwort
Mugwort as a botanical extract likely at best:
✅ May temporarily hydrates and protects as a gentle anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial wash-off and leave-on mask, cream or essence
✅ May help to mildly curtail sporadic irritation, itching or flushing when applied, especially when skin’s angriest
✅ Could support other proven anti-inflammatory ingredients when combined strategically in a comprehensive routine
HOWEVER...
❌ It does not replace evidence-backed approaches to meaningfully “treat” or “reverse” chronic skin conditions alone based on the data we have so far
❌ Any benefits beyond transient and topical irritation relief remain speculative absent confirmatory data
For now, incorporate mugwort with reasonable expectations around what we can truly extrapolate from promising but early small, limited studies. The choice is yours to determine if creative, personalized incorporation aids your particular skin goals guided by dermatology experts versus believing dramatic marketing claims.
Effective, Evidence-Based Approaches to Sensitive Skin Care
With mugwort hype accelerating exponentially faster than supporting skin research, maintain perspective by focusing first on proven sensitive skin supportive practices:
1. Avoid Common Irritants
Cut back harsh surfactant and fragrance-heavy cleansers, menthol-packed toner pads or abrasive manual exfoliators taxing the moisture barrier. Stick with reputably gentle brands thoroughly vetted by dermatologists.
2. Prioritize Proper Hydration
Boost humectants like glycerin and hyaluronic acid in serums and creams. Seal it all in with occlusive ceramides to prevent transepidermal water loss drying out skin.
3. Protect With Mineral Blockers
Vigilant mineral SPF prevents UV sensitivity reactions and further inflammation. Combination chemical + zinc oxide formulas suit acne-prones who still need antioxidants.
4. Soothe With Evidence-Based Botanicals
While mugwort shows some potential, other evidence-based ingredients can help combat irritation and sensitivity with more skin research backing at this time.
5. Seek Custom Guidance from Dermatologists
Stay tuned as emerging mugwort skin research continues unfolding. But right now, smart sensitive skin care means utilizing both time-tested gentle care practices as well as proven modern advancements under expert guidance for optimal, resilient skin health.
Who Can Still Try Mugwort?
While skeptical on dramatic effectiveness claims given preliminary nature of studies, those below may tentatively trial mugwort into your skincare routine IF used with caution:
1. Acne and Oil Prone
Possible antimicrobial effects may help curb breakouts without stripping for some when applied cautiously as a spot treatment or cleanse-off mugwort mask. Monitor closely and stop if worsens.
2. Periodic Flushing & Reactivity
Botanical compounds may temporarily relieve sporadic irritation or itching when flare prone but otherwise generally resilient skin gets most angry. Rinse off once calm.
3. Contact Dermatitis Prone
Try hides, gels or creams on localized reactions as possible lower-risk swap for harsh topicals IF patch test shows no initial irritation since data still limited.
But avoid mugwort if you are pregnant, nursing, child, under doctor’s care for conditions aggravated by inflammation like eczema or psoriasis - unless explicitly approved.
Alternative Ingredients with More Evidence than Mugwort
Thus far, we have explored several other ingredients that have garnered more substantial evidence for their effectiveness compared to mugwort.
Vitamin C:
Antioxidant properties: Neutralizes free radicals, reducing the impact of environmental stressors like UV rays and pollution.
Skin brightening: Helps fade pigmentation and evens out skin tone, contributing to a brighter complexion.
Collagen synthesis: Essential for collagen production, aiding in skin firmness and reducing signs of aging.
Retinol (Vitamin A):
Anti-aging: Promotes skin renewal, reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Acne treatment: Effective in unclogging pores and reducing acne.
Skin texture improvement: Enhances overall skin texture and tone.
Hyaluronic Acid:
Hydration: Exceptional for retaining moisture in the skin, leading to a plumped and hydrated appearance.
Skin repair: Supports the skin’s healing and barrier function.
Here are several of the products we have blind-tested and found to be great choices.
Summary: Believe the Hype?
Revelations around mugwort’s abilities to soothe and calm reactive skin still require expanded research confirmation beyond promising preliminary studies before wholeheartedly endorsing it as a proven panacea for sensitive skin.
Since irritation risks still loom with botanicals, best to avoid relying solely on this ingredient trend alone to treat your skin without sufficient data.
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What’s the difference between mugwort in korean skincare and calendula for skin?
Both display soothing abilities but mugwort offers more antioxidant, anti-inflammatory activity while calendula promotes faster healing and collagen-building as well. They make excellent complements pending more mugwort research.
Does mugwort containing skincare products expire?
Yes, mugwort does expire within 3-6 months typically. Discard if smell, texture or color changes occur as potency and safety declines. Refrigerate to extend duration but discard unused essence by 6 months maximum.
Can you use mugwort daily?
Caution advised until more studies demonstrate mugwort’s safety with consistent, long-term daily facial use.
Does mugwort help fungal acne?
No quality evidence yet if mugwort treats malassezia folliculitis. Its antimicrobial effects show promise against select bacteria but research is lacking
How should I care for acne-prone skin?
Individuals with acne-prone skin should prioritize non-comedogenic products, which do not clog pores. It's essential to cleanse the skin twice a day with a gentle cleanser, avoid harsh exfoliants, and use products containing ingredients such as salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide to target acne. Regularly changing pillowcases and avoiding touching the face can also help prevent breakouts.
What are the best ways to protect the skin?
To protect the skin effectively, it's crucial to apply broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of at least 30 daily, even on cloudy days. Wearing protective clothing and seeking shade from the sun's peak hours can also safeguard the skin from harmful UV rays. Additionally, using antioxidants such as vitamin C can help combat environmental stressors and promote skin health.
If I want to use a mugwort sheet mask, how often should I use a sheet mask?
Integrating a sheet mask into your routine 1-3 times per week can offer a hydration and treatment boost to the skin. However, no great evidence supports using a mugwort mask in particular.
What are the supposed benefits of mugwort for the skin?
Mugwort is claimed to have several benefits for the skin, including soothing properties and potential anti-inflammatory effects. However, it's important to note that scientific evidence supporting these claims is limited. While some users may find mugwort helpful, especially for dry or sensitive skin, its effectiveness can vary.
Can mugwort essence help with dry skin?
Mugwort essence is often touted for its moisturizing properties. However, for those with extremely dry skin, it may not be sufficient on its own. It's crucial to use it as part of a broader skincare routine that includes proven moisturizers.
Is mugwort essence effective for hormonal acne?
While some anecdotal evidence suggests that mugwort can help with hormonal acne due to its supposed anti-inflammatory properties, there is a lack of robust clinical research to confirm this. Hormonal acne often requires targeted treatments, and relying solely on mugwort essence may not provide the desired results.
Can mugwort essence remove dead skin cells?
Mugwort is not typically known for exfoliating properties. To effectively remove dead skin cells, products containing ingredients like alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) or beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs) are generally recommended.
Is mugwort essence suitable for aging skin?
Claims about mugwort essence aiding aging skin are largely anecdotal. While it may provide some hydration, aging skin often requires more comprehensive care, including ingredients like retinoids, peptides, and antioxidants.
Can I use mugwort essence if I have sensitive skin?
Mugwort is often marketed as suitable for sensitive skin. However, as with any skincare product, individual reactions can vary. It's always advisable to do a patch test before incorporating a new product into your routine.
Are there any drawbacks to using mugwort in skincare products?
The primary concern with mugwort, as with any botanical ingredient, is the potential for allergic reactions or skin irritation. Additionally, relying on mugwort essence alone for skin concerns like acne or aging may not be as effective as using more established treatments.
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We are a group of dermatology residents and attending physicians based in Boston, MA. Our team of Ivy League-trained dermatologists is demystifying the cosmeceutical industry by offering unbiased, scientifically supported reviews of skincare products. We are extremely passionate about skincare and making it accessible to all through education. We value integrity, practicality, and inclusivity. No sponsorships were received for the products prior to testing; we feel strongly about providing un-biased reviews. After blogs are published, following the links in this blog post may result in commission.
Dr. David Li is a recent graduate from the Harvard Combined Dermatology Residency Program. He is now in private practice as a procedural dermatologist in Downtown Boston where he offers skin cancer screenings, skin cancer surgeries, and laser and cosmetic rejuvenation. He has published more than 25 peer-reviewed research articles, is active as an advisor for multiple early-stage companies, and is an angel investor in the healthcare technology space. In his free time, he enjoys running to stay fit, cooking, and playing with his Australian shepherd, Laika.
Dr. Nelson Ugwu is a dermatology resident at the Harvard Combined Dermatology Residency Program. His clinical interests include general dermatology, skin of color and skin cancer prevention. Nelson has discovered mutations that cause skin diseases, as well as new treatments for skin conditions. In his free time, Nelson enjoys weightlifting, playing soccer and trying new recipes.
Dr. Arash Mostaghimi is an associate professor of dermatology at Harvard Medical School, the director of the inpatient dermatology consult service, and co-director of the Complex Medical Dermatology Fellowship at Brigham & Women’s Hospital. He is also the principal investigator of the Mostaghimi Lab, where he leads a diverse group of physicians and researchers to study alopecia areata, an autoimmune hair loss condition which afflicts his daughter. In addition to his research, he is an advisor to multiple companies and is an associate editor of JAMA Dermatology.
