Jade Rollers and Gua Sha Tools: Do They Really Work or Are They Hype? BDA’s Dermatologists Weigh In
Image by Freepik
Table of Contents
What Are Jade Rollers and Gua Sha Tools?
Do Jade Rollers Really Help Contour and Sculpt the Face?
Do Jade Rollers Reduce Wrinkles and Fine Lines?
What About Using Gua Sha Tools to Contour the Face?
Can Gua Sha Reduce Wrinkles and Fine Lines?
Do Jade Rollers or Gua Sha Tools Have Any Proven Facial Benefits?
Jade rollers and gua sha tools have become immensely popular skincare tools in recent years. Proponents claim that regularly using these tools can help contour the face, improve wrinkles and fine lines, and provide other anti-aging skin benefits. But do these facial tools really live up to the hype?
In this article, we'll examine what evidence-based research says about the potential benefits of jade rollers and gua sha tools.
What Are Jade Rollers and Gua Sha Tools?
Jade rollers and gua sha tools are two types of facial massage tools that have their roots in traditional Chinese medicine.
Jade rollers are skincare tools made from natural jade stone that are used to massage the face. They are designed with a rolling head that glides over the skin. Jade is often touted to have cooling properties that can help soothe and calm the skin.
Gua sha tools are flat facial tools, traditionally made of jade, rose quartz, or other stones. They are used in short, pressured strokes on the skin to massage the face. Gua sha aims to promote circulation and blood flow.
Do Jade Rollers Really Help Contour and Sculpt the Face?
Jade rollers are often marketed as having the ability to contour, lift, and sculpt the facial muscles, resulting in a slimming effect. However, these claims are backed by little evidence that there are true, lasting significant contouring or lifting effects on the face.
Here’s why:
Jade rollers likely don't apply enough pressure to stimulate muscle tone. The light rolling motion of a jade roller is not forceful enough to reach the deeper facial muscles. Stimulating muscular contraction requires deeper tissue manipulation.
You can't spot reduce fat on the face. Fat distribution in the face is genetically determined. Rolling a jade tool on areas like the cheeks and jawline cannot spot reduce fat in those areas.
Effects appear to be temporary. The cooling sensation of the jade may help temporarily tighten pores and provide mild lifting. But any visible effects are short-lived.
One paper published in PLoS ONE in 2017 examined the effects of a sonic skin massaging device on protein expression in the human skin and appearance on wrinkles. That study demonstrated increased expression of elastin, fibrillin, procollagen (connective tissue structures) and improved appearance of wrinkles in the patients treated with device + anti-aging cream, compared with patients treated with anti-aging cream alone. However, that tool does not function in the same manner as a jade roller, so these results cannot be generalized to jade roller use.
Caberlotto E, Ruiz L, Miller Z, Poletti M, Tadlock L. Effects of a skin-massaging device on the ex-vivo expression of human dermis proteins and in-vivo facial wrinkles. PLoS One. 2017 Mar 1;12(3):e0172624. doi: 10.1371/journal.pone.0172624. PMID: 28249037; PMCID: PMC5383004.
Do Jade Rollers Reduce Wrinkles and Fine Lines?
Another proposed skin benefit of jade rollers is minimizing the appearance of wrinkles, including fine lines around the eyes and mouth. However, there is not yet convincing evidence to support this claim.
Here’s why:
The evidence does not link jade roller use to promoting collagen production. Collagen is necessary for youthful, wrinkle-free skin. Jade rolling does not stimulate new collagen production, at least not according to the current literature.
It doesn't reach the deeper dermal layers. Fine lines and wrinkles embed in the deeper dermis. The superficial pressure of jade rollers mainly impacts the topmost layers of skin.
Any plumping effect appears to be temporary. Cool jade may help temporarily tighten the skin. But it does not permanently plump the skin or fill in wrinkles.
The bottom line is that jade rollers likely may not provide lasting reversal or improvement of wrinkles or fine lines to any significant degree. For anti-aging effects, look to more evidence-based topical skincare ingredients like retinol and sunscreen.
In our literature search, we found study published in Complementary Therapies in Medicine, which concluded that facial massage roller on the face can help to increase blood flow to the skin. While we do not dispute this claim (see image from their publication), we will say that increased blood flow alone does not confer anti-aging benefit, at least not at this time.
Miyaji A, Sugimori K, Hayashi N. Short- and long-term effects of using a facial massage roller on facial skin blood flow and vascular reactivity. Complement Ther Med. 2018;41:271-276. doi:https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ctim.2018.09.009
Miyaji A, Sugimori K, Hayashi N. Short- and long-term effects of using a facial massage roller on facial skin blood flow and vascular reactivity. Complement Ther Med. 2018;41:271-276. doi:https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ctim.2018.09.009
What About Using Gua Sha Tools to Contour the Face?
Gua sha tools are sometimes marketed as being able to reshape and contour facial features through targeted facial massage. However, the literature is still nascent in supporting these claims:
It does not seem that you can spot reduce fat with massage. As with jade rollers, Gua sha tools glide over the skin's surface and do not physically break down fat cells. Genetics determines facial fat distribution rather than spot massage.
Some evidence-based treatments that actually reduce fat include CoolSculpting (Zeltiq) and Kybella, which dermatologists perform routinely in practice.
Gua sha applies pressure but does not stimulate muscle growth. The facial muscles are limited in their growth potential. Gua sha cannot build up the facial muscles enough to lift sagging skin or sharpen facial contours.
To achieve a true lifting effect of the face, treatments like Ulthera or Sofwave may be helpful for mild sagging, whereas a face lift by a board-certified plastic surgeon is most beneficial for severe sagging.
Flushing after use is a result of pressure and blood flow: Immediately after gua sha, increased blood flow can temporarily give a rosy appearance. But these effects quickly fade and do not mean the same thing as contouring.
Gua sha may feel relaxing and can temporarily enhance facial redness through increased microcirculation. In our literature research, we discovered the following paper which used doppler imaging to study microcirculatory effects of Gua sha on 11 subjects. They discovered that Gua Sha increased microcirculation at the treatment areas on the back by 4-fold. Increased blood flow is an observation and does not at this time warrant any value as a proxy for anti-aging or wrinkle reduction.
Nielsen A, Knoblauch NT, Dobos GJ, Michalsen A, Kaptchuk TJ. The effect of Gua Sha treatment on the microcirculation of surface tissue: a pilot study in healthy subjects. Explore (NY). 2007 Sep-Oct;3(5):456-66. doi: 10.1016/j.explore.2007.06.001. PMID: 17905355.
Can Gua Sha Reduce Wrinkles and Fine Lines?
Like jade rollers, gua sha tools are also touted for their anti-aging abilities. However, gua sha is unlikely to minimize wrinkles to a meaningful degree due to the limitations of massage for wrinkle reduction:
None of the studies we reviewed demonstrated a reliable increase in collagen production due to Gua sha. Wrinkle-fighting collagen production requires deeper dermal stimulation, beyond a gua sha tool's abilities.
It impacts the skin surface and does not help wrinkles. Gua sha glides along the most superficial facial layers rather than penetrating deeply where wrinkles form.
The bottom line is that no research backs the use of gua sha as an anti-wrinkle treatment. Evidence-based treatments such as Botox, Sofwave, Ulthera, and lasers such as Fraxel or CO2 lasers are available for wrinkle treatment.
Do Jade Rollers or Gua Sha Tools Have Any Proven Facial Benefits?
While jade rollers and gua sha tools seem limited in their abilities to contour the face or reduce wrinkles, they may offer some benefits:
A facial massage. Both jade rolling and gua sha can feel soothing and relaxing as part of a skincare routine. The massage may temporarily reduce facial tension.
Temporary rosy appearance of your face. Increased blood circulation from massage can give skin a temporary glow.
Possible lymphatic drainage. Some facial massage techniques may help stimulate lymphatic drainage to reduce puffiness. But more research would be needed to confirm effects.
Any facial massage tool can provide general wellness benefits related to relaxation, destressing, and enhancing the skincare ritual. However, you should not expect any significant contouring, anti-aging, or dramatic complexion effects.
Are Jade Rollers or Gua Sha Worth Buying?
It depends. They’re probably not harmful but might not lead to the overall outcomes you’re hoping for if you want reduction of fine lines, wrinkles and facial contouring. However, if you’re looking for a fun new addition to your skin care regimen with possible relaxation benefits, they likely aren’t harmful if used correctly.
-
1. What is the trend with facial rollers?
The use of facial rollers, such as jade rollers and gua shas, has become a popular trend in skincare. However, we have not found any evidence to substantiate their use to contour the face/jaw, or to improve wrinkles or complexion.
2. How do facial rollers affect the lymphatic system?
Facial rollers, particularly gua shas, may help with lymphatic drainage in the same way that a gentle massage of the face would.
3. Is it necessary to consult a board-certified dermatologist before using a facial roller?
While it is not mandatory, consulting a board-certified dermatologist is recommended, especially if you have any specific skin concerns or conditions. They can provide personalized guidance and advise on the best practices. Your dermatologist will likely not dissuade you from using a facial roller, but should warn you of the risks of using them (e.g. ensuring they are clean and allergen free).
4. Can a facial roller help reduce excess fluid in the face?
No, there is no evidence that facial rollers help with this, at least not any more than a gentle massage to the face with your fingers.
5. Are jade rollers and gua shas just fads or do they really have benefits?
Maybe both. As mentioned above there are not clear evidence-based benefits to either though there may be relaxation related benefits and harm is unlikely.
-
We are a group of dermatology residents and attending physicians based in Boston, MA. Our team of Ivy League-trained dermatologists is demystifying the cosmeceutical industry by offering unbiased, scientifically supported reviews of skincare products. We are extremely passionate about skincare and making it accessible to all through education. We value integrity, practicality, and inclusivity. No sponsorships were received for the products prior to testing; we feel strongly about providing un-biased reviews. After blogs are published, following the links in this blog post may result in commission.
Dr. David Li is a recent graduate from the Harvard Combined Dermatology Residency Program. He is now in private practice as a procedural dermatologist in Downtown Boston where he offers skin cancer screenings, skin cancer surgeries, and laser and cosmetic rejuvenation. He has published more than 25 peer-reviewed research articles, is active as an advisor for multiple early-stage companies, and is an angel investor in the healthcare technology space. In his free time, he enjoys running to stay fit, cooking, and playing with his Australian shepherd, Laika.
Dr. Jacqueline Stevens is currently a resident in the Harvard Combined Dermatology Program. She completed her undergraduate studies and MD-PhD at the University of Virginia with a PhD in microbiology, immunology, and infectious disease. Jacqueline has interest in cutaneous oncology, melanoma, and dermatologic surgery. She has published work on the basic science of inflammation at skin barriers, dermatologic diseases, and systems used to classify squamous cell skin cancer. In her free time, she enjoys skiing, hanging with her rescue pup, and the outdoors.
Dr. Olivia Davies is a dermatology resident at the Harvard Combined Dermatology Residency Program. Her dermatology interests include inpatient dermatology, complex-medical dermatology and medical education. She enjoys exploring the intersection between medicine and media — with past experiences that include rotating through the ABC News Medical Unit, publishing a graphic perspective in the New England Journal, and serving as a poetry editor for Intima: A Journal of Narrative Medicine. When she’s not learning or working, she can be found making cheese plates for friends, sipping a warm cup of coffee, or solving the newest NYT crossword puzzle.
Dr. Nelson Ugwu is a dermatology resident at the Harvard Combined Dermatology Residency Program. His clinical interests include general dermatology, skin of color and skin cancer prevention. Nelson has discovered mutations that cause skin diseases, as well as new treatments for skin conditions. In his free time, Nelson enjoys weightlifting, playing soccer and trying new recipes.
Dr. Arash Mostaghimi is an associate professor of dermatology at Harvard Medical School, the director of the inpatient dermatology consult service, and co-director of the Complex Medical Dermatology Fellowship at Brigham & Women’s Hospital. He is also the principal investigator of the Mostaghimi Lab, where he leads a diverse group of physicians and researchers to study alopecia areata, an autoimmune hair loss condition which afflicts his daughter. In addition to his research, he is an advisor to multiple companies and is an associate editor of JAMA Dermatology.
