10 Anti-Aging Skin Care Tips - According to Harvard Med School Dermatology-trained Experts
What can you learn from this article?
We gathered intel so you don’t have to. Here we share 10 tips for anti-aging skin care based on published research, news articles and the education-based opinion of our dermatology resident and physician team. Interested? Read on.
1. Retinoids Stimulate Collagen and Cell Turnover
Retinoids like tretinoin (prescription) or retinols (over-the-counter) are powerhouse ingredients in anti-aging creams and products. Here’s why:
Retinoids:
Increase collagen production in the skin which thickens the dermis and reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Accelerate skin cell turnover which can help fade discoloration and some superficial acne scars.
Tretinoin is the most accessible prescription retinoid, while over-the-counter retinol creams also offer collagen benefits at lower concentrations.
Most recommend starting by using retinoids/retinols 2-3 times per week and gradually work up to nightly use as tolerated. Use moisturizer to combat dryness. Consistent retinoid use improves multiple visible signs of aging for a more youthful looking complexion over time.
PLEASE note: Certain populations, such as individuals who are pregnant or trying to conceive should avoid retinols/retinoids. It is important to talk to your doctor to discuss if retinoids/retinols are for you.
Reference: Kong R, Cui Y, Fisher GJ, Wang X, Chen Y, Schneider LM, Majmudar G. A comparative study of the effects of retinol and retinoic acid on histological, molecular, and clinical properties of human skin. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2016 Mar;15(1):49-57. doi: 10.1111/jocd.12193. Epub 2015 Nov 18. PMID: 26578346. https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/jocd.12193
2. Daily Sunscreen Protection Prevents Photoaging
Sunscreen is a non-negotiable skin care product in any daily skincare routine. Here's why:
UV radiation and visible light (even blue light from your computer screen!) can lead to accelerated aging through collagen breakdown and dark spots. Daily SPF protects your skin from harmful UV ray and tinted SPF works well against visible light (Check out BDA's favorite sunscreens here).
Apply broad spectrum SPF 30 or higher sunscreen to all exposed skin in the morning. Reapply every 2 hours when outdoors. This is a guideline that is recommended by the American Academy of Dermatology.
Even cloudy days and incidental sun exposure add up, so don't reserve sunscreen just for beach days. Make it a habit!
Both UVA and UVB rays penetrate windows so wear sunscreen daily even if indoors near windows.
Derm favorites in addition to broad spectrum sunscreen:
Wide-brimmed hats (like this one), SPF UV protective clothing (one of our favorite brands is Coolibar).
Driving gloves (like these) can protect your hands from photodamage, which can make you look older than your age.
3. Consider Adding an Antioxidant Serum to Counteract Free Radicals
Antioxidants such as Vitamin C can support collagen and skin health.
Vitamin C serums with L-ascorbic acid help protect skin from oxidative damage from things like sunlight, pollution, and smoke. Look for at least 10-15% vitamin C concentration.
Apply antioxidant serums daily under SPF in the AM and on clean skin in the PM for maximal antioxidative protection against external aging factors.
Reference: Neera Nathan, MD. https://www.health.harvard.edu/blog/why-is-topical-vitamin-c-important-for-skin-health-202111102635
Reference: Fitzpatrick RE, Rostan EF. Double-blind, half-face study comparing topical vitamin C and vehicle for rejuvenation of photodamage. Dermatol Surg. 2002 Mar;28(3):231-6. doi: 10.1046/j.1524-4725.2002.01129.x. PMID: 11896774. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/11896774/
4. Hyaluronic Acid Can Keep Your Skin Hydrated
Hyaluronic acid (HA) is hailed by many dermatologists as one of the best hydrating and anti-aging ingredients. Here's how it works:
HA is a molecule that can hold 1000x its weight in water, allowing it to flood hydration into the skin when applied.
It helps restore lost moisture and volume which plumps fine lines and wrinkles, giving a more youthful appearance.
Look for HA serums with a molecular weight of 50kDa-1.5MDa for optimal hydration effects based on studies.
HA is very well tolerated by most skin types. Twice daily use assists with continuous line and wrinkle softening through improved skin hydration.
Reference: Bravo B, Correia P, Gonçalves Junior JE, Sant'Anna B, Kerob D. Benefits of topical hyaluronic acid for skin quality and signs of skin aging: From literature review to clinical evidence. Dermatol Ther. 2022 Dec;35(12):e15903. doi: 10.1111/dth.15903. Epub 2022 Oct 21. PMID: 36200921; PMCID: PMC10078143. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/36200921/
Reference: Draelos ZD, Diaz I, Namkoong J, Wu J, Boyd T. Efficacy Evaluation of a Topical Hyaluronic Acid Serum in Facial Photoaging. Dermatol Ther (Heidelb). 2021 Aug;11(4):1385-1394. doi: 10.1007/s13555-021-00566-0. Epub 2021 Jun 26. PMID: 34176098; PMCID: PMC8322246. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/34176098/
5. Gentle Exfoliation Removes Skin Debris
Gentle exfoliation removes the dulling buildup of dead skin cells.
Gentle keratolytics like glycolic acid (Alpha Hydroxy Acid) or salicylic acid (Beta Hydroxy Acid) lift dead cells, even the skin tone, and speed cell turnover.
Once weekly use is generally appropriate, though some may find 2-3x weekly preferable for their skin.
There are differing strengths of glycolic acid and salicylic acid. High strengths of either need physician supervision. It is important to follow the directions closely on these products and consult with your doctor if you have any questions regarding safe use.
Reference: Bjørklund G, Shanaida M, Lysiuk R, Butnariu M, Peana M, Sarac I, Strus O, Smetanina K, Chirumbolo S. Natural Compounds and Products from an Anti-Aging Perspective. Molecules. 2022 Oct 20;27(20):7084. doi: 10.3390/molecules27207084. PMID: 36296673; PMCID: PMC9610014. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC9610014/
6. Choose the Right Moisturizer Formula for Your Skin Type
The right moisturizer locks in hydration to keep skin supple and minimize the appearance of fine lines according to top dermatologists. Here are tips tailored to different skin types:
For dry skin, look for a thicker, rich cream-based moisturizer containing hydrating emollients like ceramides, shea butter, or oils.
For oily/acne-prone skin, go for an oil-free, lightweight gel-cream. They offer hydration without clogging pores.
Those with combination skin should use a light lotion or fluid in oilier zones, and cream for any dry spots.
Hydrating serums + moisturizers layer together to provide hydration at different skin levels for optimal anti-aging benefits.
7. Eat a Skin-Healthy Diet Rich in Antioxidants
Optimizing your nutrition positively impacts your skin as you age according to dermatology experts. Key diet tips include:
Eat plenty of colorful fruits, veggies, nuts, seeds, fish, whole grains - foods rich in skin-loving vitamins, minerals, healthy fats and antioxidants.
Avoid inflammatory foods like refined carbohydrates, sugars, and saturated fats which can worsen skin aging.
Stay hydrated by drinking 6-8 glasses of water daily minimum to maintain skin's moisture.
Limit alcohol which dehydrates skin and creates free radicals. Have no more than 1 drink per day max.
Smoking and vaping generate oxidation, deplete collagen, and constrict blood vessels in skin.
Reference: Hughes MCB, Williams GM, Pageon H, Fourtanier A, Green AC. Dietary Antioxidant Capacity and Skin Photoaging: A 15-Year Longitudinal Study. J Invest Dermatol. 2021 Apr;141(4S):1111-1118.e2. doi: 10.1016/j.jid.2020.06.026. Epub 2020 Jul 16. PMID: 32682911. https://www.jidonline.org/article/S0022-202X(20)31840-6/fulltext
8. Treat Other Skin Conditions to Avoid Exacerbating Aging
Chronic skin conditions such as eczema, acne, or rosacea can hasten the effects of aging on the skin. Working with a dermatologist to manage these other conditions can minimize side effects and signs of premature aging.
Conditions that chronically inflame facial skin increase collagen breakdown which worsens fines lines over time.
Using medications, creams or procedures specific to your condition helps get it under control. This prevents it from accelerating aging.
Even occasional acne should be treated as it can leave behind dark marks and pitted scars that add years to your complexion. Read about our experiment here on the best acne face washes to find one that is suitable for your skin.
9. Develop a Personalized Prevention Plan with Your Dermatologist
Have a discussion with your dermatologist to develop a personalized prevention plan optimized for your unique skin type and concerns.
Individuals with a personal or family history of skin cancer may benefit from an annual skin cancer screening with a dermatologist.
New or changing spots, growths or rashes should be evaluated, especially those persisting >2 weeks. Early diagnosis is important!
Individuals considering cosmetic procedure should consult with a trained provider with a clear track record of excellence. There are numerous approaches from creams to lasers to fillers to chemical peels. It is important to discuss the risks/benefits of each to determine what might be best for you and your unique skin concerns.
Discuss which OTC and prescription anti-aging products are right for your particular skin needs and sensitivities based on expert guidance.
10. Protect Skin From Other Harsh Exposures
Lastly, minimizing exposure to environmental exposures preserves your skin's youthful texture and appearance.
Choose gentler cleansers over harsh soaps which strip skin of natural oils. Look for a mild surfactant-based product to cleanse your skin.
Avoid excess heat from long hot showers or baths which deplete moisture and dry out your skin over time.
Use a humidifier at home and moisturize within 5 minutes of bathing to counteract dry air and help prevent dry skin.
Wear gloves for cleaning or gardening to protect hands from chemicals, dirt, etc. Rinse after.
Follow a consistent day and nighttime skincare regimen customized for your needs to maintain skin health.
Reference: Herrero-Fernandez M, Montero-Vilchez T, Diaz-Calvillo P, Romera-Vilchez M, Buendia-Eisman A, Arias-Santiago S. Impact of Water Exposure and Temperature Changes on Skin Barrier Function. J Clin Med. 2022 Jan 7;11(2):298. doi: 10.3390/jcm11020298. PMID: 35053992; PMCID: PMC8778033. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC8778033/
In Summary: Key Anti-Aging Skincare Takeaways
Aging is inevitable and the natural aging process should be celebrated, though there are steps to age gracefully while looking your best
Use retinoids nightly to increase collagen production and cell turnover
Apply at least a broad spectrum SPF 30+ sunscreen to face daily, even when indoors if you are near a window
Layer on antioxidant serums containing ingredients like vitamin C and niacinamide
Hydrate skin with hyaluronic acid to restore plumpness
Consider gently exfoliating with salicylic acid 1-3 times weekly to smooth skin texture
Eat a diet high in antioxidants and healthy fats but low in sugar/refined carbs
Have a baseline skin cancer screening to determine the frequency of your visits and discuss cosmetic procedures with your dermatologist
Avoid environmental factors like excessive hot showers, harsh soaps or unprotected sun exposure
Develop a personalized, consistent anti-aging skincare regimen tailored to your individual needs
Following skincare and lifestyle habits guided by board-certified dermatologists allows you to help maintain a more youthful glow as you age. Be diligent with proven wrinkle-fighting ingredients, smart sun protection, and visiting your dermatologist annually. Doing the right preventive things consistently makes a real difference in reducing visible aging effects over decades. Remember - it's never too early or late to start prioritizing your skin health!
-
At what age should I start using anti-aging skincare products?
Dermatologists often recommend starting a basic anti-aging skincare routine in your late 20s to early 30s, which is when subtle signs like fine lines and pigmentation typically begin. However, implementing protective habits like daily SPF, antioxidants and moisturizing early on in your teens and 20s helps establish a strong foundation for youthful skin later. Lifestyle also matters more than age.
What ingredients or procedures help treat deep wrinkles?
For more pronounced wrinkles, topical retinoids, vitamin C serums and hyaluronic acid can help modestly improve texture but creams alone often cannot fully reverse deep wrinkles. In these cases, dermatologists may recommend combining cosmetic treatments like neuromodulators (Botox), soft tissue fillers, chemical peels, laser skin resurfacing or Ultherapy for optimal rejuvenation of advanced wrinkles and folds.
What are some visible signs of aging I should look for on my skin?
Common early signs of skin aging to look for are wrinkles and fine lines, dark spots and pigmentation, uneven skin tone, loss of elasticity leading to sagging, rough skin texture, thin and dry skin, enlarged pores, and dull tone. Catching changes early allows you to address them promptly.
What’s the best anti-aging skin care regimen recommended by dermatologists?
Most dermatologists recommend a core regimen consisting of a gentle cleanser, antioxidant serum, hyaluronic acid serum, daily SPF 30 moisturizer, and a nightly retinoid cream. Complement this with weekly exfoliation, hydrating creams, and professional treatments as needed for your concerns.
How can I reduce premature skin aging and damage from the sun?
Prevent premature aging by applying broad spectrum SPF 30 sunscreen daily along with UV protective clothing and hats when outdoors. Seek shade during peak sun hours. Doing these consistently safeguards skin from the leading cause of premature aging - sun damage.
What are ways to keep my skin healthy and slow aging effects?
Protect skin from sun exposure, don't smoke, follow a diet high in antioxidants and Omega-3s, stay hydrated, reduce stress, exercise, and get sufficient sleep. Maintaining overall health has anti-aging effects. Skincare-wise, use gentle cleansers, retinoids, peels and lasers as guided by your dermatologist.
Why is it important to address signs of skin aging early on?
Catching signs of skin aging early when they are mild allows for treatment with topical products and preventative steps. Waiting until age-related changes progress leads to needing more invasive procedures, cosmetic treatments, and surgery down the line. Being proactive helps maintain youthfulness.
How can I prevent premature aging and maintain youthful-looking skin?
Preventing premature aging starts with diligent sun protection, not smoking, eating a healthy diet, managing stress, exercising, proper skincare, and seeing a dermatologist yearly. Using topical antioxidants and retinoids combined with professional treatments as needed optimizes your chances of maintaining a youthful glow.
What is the best way to keep your skin looking its best at any age?
Protect your skin from the sun, stay hydrated, avoid irritants and inflammation, don't smoke, eat healthy fats and antioxidants, manage stress, exercise, get sufficient sleep, cleanse gently, and use anti-aging ingredients guided by your dermatologist. Consistency with healthy habits and addressing problems early keeps skin looking its radiant best.
How can I reduce damage to the skin around my eyes and prevent wrinkles/fine lines?
Wear sunglasses when outside to minimize eye area sun damage. Stay hydrated and use a moisturizer with SPF during the day along with an eye cream with ultra-hydrators like hyaluronic acid at night. Avoid allergens, sleep adequately, and use OTC retinoids very sparingly under the eye.
-
We are a group of dermatology residents and attending physicians based in Boston, MA. Our team of Ivy League-trained dermatologists is demystifying the cosmeceutical industry by offering unbiased, scientifically supported reviews of skincare products. We are extremely passionate about skincare and making it accessible to all through education. We value integrity, practicality, and inclusivity. No sponsorships were received for the products prior to testing; we feel strongly about providing un-biased reviews. After blogs are published, following the links in this blog post may result in commission.
Dr. David Li is a recent graduate from the Harvard Combined Dermatology Residency Program. He is now in private practice as a procedural dermatologist in Downtown Boston where he offers skin cancer screenings, skin cancer surgeries, and laser and cosmetic rejuvenation. He has published more than 25 peer-reviewed research articles, is active as an advisor for multiple early-stage companies, and is an angel investor in the healthcare technology space. In his free time, he enjoys running to stay fit, cooking, and playing with his Australian shepherd, Laika.
Dr. Jacqueline Stevens is currently a resident in the Harvard Combined Dermatology Program. She completed her undergraduate studies and MD-PhD at the University of Virginia with a PhD in microbiology, immunology, and infectious disease. Jacqueline has interest in cutaneous oncology, melanoma, and dermatologic surgery. She has published work on the basic science of inflammation at skin barriers, dermatologic diseases, and systems used to classify squamous cell skin cancer. In her free time, she enjoys skiing, hanging with her rescue pup, and the outdoors.
Dr. Olivia Davies is a dermatology resident at the Harvard Combined Dermatology Residency Program. Her dermatology interests include inpatient dermatology, complex-medical dermatology and medical education. She enjoys exploring the intersection between medicine and media — with past experiences that include rotating through the ABC News Medical Unit, publishing a graphic perspective in the New England Journal, and serving as a poetry editor for Intima: A Journal of Narrative Medicine. When she’s not learning or working, she can be found making cheese plates for friends, sipping a warm cup of coffee, or solving the newest NYT crossword puzzle.
Dr. Nelson Ugwu is a dermatology resident at the Harvard Combined Dermatology Residency Program. His clinical interests include general dermatology, skin of color and skin cancer prevention. Nelson has discovered mutations that cause skin diseases, as well as new treatments for skin conditions. In his free time, Nelson enjoys weightlifting, playing soccer and trying new recipes.
Dr. Arash Mostaghimi is an associate professor of dermatology at Harvard Medical School, the director of the inpatient dermatology consult service, and co-director of the Complex Medical Dermatology Fellowship at Brigham & Women’s Hospital. He is also the principal investigator of the Mostaghimi Lab, where he leads a diverse group of physicians and researchers to study alopecia areata, an autoimmune hair loss condition which afflicts his daughter. In addition to his research, he is an advisor to multiple companies and is an associate editor of JAMA Dermatology.
